To hem with a sewing machine, mark the finished length, add enough fabric for a double fold, press both folds toward the wrong side, and sew a straight line around the folded edge. A pressed, evenly pinned fold is much easier to stitch than a loose edge shaped as it goes under the needle.
This method works for pants, skirts, curtains, and many woven-fabric projects. Test on a scrap first, especially with stretchy, thick, or slippery fabric.
Key Takeaways
- Mark the finished hemline first, then add fabric for two folds before cutting.
- Press each fold before sewing; pins or basting hold the fold while you stitch.
- A visible straight stitch is the simplest machine hem. A blind hem is an optional, machine-specific finish.
- Test your thread, needle, and stitch on matching fabric before sewing the garment.
- Stop and recheck the needle, threading, and fold if stitches skip, pucker, or catch the other side of a pant leg.
Cover image credit: Photo: sewing machine by eggrole, licensed under CC BY 2.0. Resized and padded. Illustrative stock photo; no product testing is implied.
What you need before hemming
Gather the garment or fabric, a sewing machine, matching thread, fabric scissors, pins or clips, a ruler or measuring tape, a marking tool, and an iron and ironing surface. Keep the machine manual nearby. It is the best source for the correct threading path, needle system, reverse control, and stitches on your specific model.
For pants, try them on with the shoes you expect to wear most often. A helper makes it easier to mark both legs level. For a flat project, measure the same distance from the existing edge all the way across.
Before cutting, decide the finished hem depth. A double-fold hem uses twice that amount of fabric: one fold hides the raw edge and the other creates the finished depth. Mark the finished line and cut line before using scissors.
Step 1: Mark, trim, and press the hem allowance
By the end of this step, you will have a clean, even double fold that shows exactly where you will sew.
- Mark the finished length. On the wrong side of the fabric, draw or mark a line at the desired finished edge. Check the measurement in several places, not just at one seam.
- Mark the cut line. Measure below the finished line by twice the finished hem depth. This extra fabric becomes the two folds. If you are preserving a ready-made hem, compare the planned fold with the original before trimming.
- Trim carefully. Cut on the cut line, keeping the edge smooth. If you are unsure of the length, leave the excess in place for now and make a temporary folded hem first.
- Make the first fold. Turn the raw edge to the wrong side by one finished hem depth. Press the fold flat.
- Make the second fold. Turn the folded edge up by the same depth so the raw edge is completely enclosed. Press again, then pin or clip the fold in place.
Pressing creates a crisp guide and makes it easier to spot a section that has drifted wider or narrower than the rest. On fabric that could be marked by heat, test the iron on a hidden area and follow the garment-care label.
If the raw edge unravels easily, keep it enclosed in the double fold. If you are considering a separate edge finish, see what a serger sewing machine does and does not do. Avoid adding a bulky finish that makes the hem hard to fold smoothly.
Step 2: Set up the machine and sew a test
By the end of this step, you will know whether the machine makes a smooth seam on the folded fabric before you work on the visible garment hem.
Thread the machine with a color that blends into the garment. Install a needle and presser foot appropriate for the project, following the manual and the needle package. The SCHMETZ Sewing Machine Needle Chart is one manufacturer reference for needle sizes and anatomy; your manual establishes what the machine accepts.
Use a straight stitch for a visible hem and sew a short test on two pressed folds of matching fabric. The stitch should lie flat without loose loops, broken thread, or obvious puckering.
Accessories and capabilities vary by model. For example, Brother lists a blind-stitch foot and free-arm capability on its CS7000X; it says the free arm helps with narrow pant legs and cuffs (Brother CS7000X product page). If your test is not clean, rethread, install a fresh undamaged needle, and test again.
Step 3: Stitch the double-fold hem
By the end of this step, the folded edge will be permanently secured with an even line of stitching.
- Start at a discreet point. For pants, the inseam is practical. Position the wrong side up with the folded edge under the presser foot.
- Choose a consistent sewing line. Sew near the inner folded edge, using a guide on the foot or needle plate. Consistency matters more than a particular measurement.
- Secure the ends. Use the machine’s reverse or securing method described in its manual.
- Guide; do not pull. Keep the fold aligned as the feed dogs move it. Remove each pin before it reaches the needle.
- Finish the circle. Overlap only enough to secure the seam, then trim thread tails.
For a narrow pant leg, turn it wrong side out and use the free arm if the opening fits comfortably. Otherwise, ensure you are stitching only the hem layer—not both sides of the leg. Press again from the wrong side.
Choose the hem finish that fits the project
A double-fold straight-stitch hem encloses the raw edge and is easy to inspect. Choose a finish based on stitch visibility, needed stretch, and folded thickness.
| Finish | Best use | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| Visible double-fold straight stitch | Everyday pants, woven fabric, home projects | Test that the thread color and stitch line look intentional from the right side. |
| Blind hem stitch | A less-visible hem on a machine that supports it | Read the machine manual for the required fold, stitch selection, and foot. Practice on a scrap first. |
| Stretch-compatible hem | Knit garments or any hem that must stretch | Test by gently stretching the sample. If it pops or waves, consult the manual for stitch and presser-foot options. |
| Thick-fabric hem | Denim-like or layered fabric | Test the folded thickness. Stop if the handwheel will not turn easily; do not force the needle through a bulky seam. |
When to use a blind hem
A blind hem can leave small, widely spaced catches on the outside rather than a continuous line. It needs a particular fold and often a blind-hem foot, so details vary by machine. Check the manual and make a sample with the same folds and thickness as the garment.
A blind hem is not automatically better. A visible straight stitch can look neat, is easier to troubleshoot, and is often preferable while learning.
Handling knits and thick seams
For a knit, make the sample with the same amount of stretch as the finished hem. If the seam pops or distorts when gently stretched, check the manual for a compatible stitch option.
At a bulky side seam or original jean seam, slow down. Turn the handwheel toward you to check that the needle can pass through the layers. If it cannot, stop rather than forcing the machine. Reducing bulk, changing the hem depth, or consulting an alterations professional is safer than repeatedly striking a hard ridge.
Troubleshooting common hemming problems
A poor hem usually points to preparation, threading, or fabric handling—not a need to sew faster.
The hem is wavy or puckered. Re-press the fold and make another sample. Do not pull the fabric from behind the foot. If it still puckers, verify threading, needle, and settings in the manual before changing tension.
Stitches skip or thread breaks. Stop, replace a bent or dull needle, rethread top and bobbin threads as the manual shows, and test on scrap. If thread nests or the machine jams, use our guide to common sewing-machine jam causes before returning to the hem.
The fold changes width. Unpick the uneven section, press it to the intended depth, and pin or baste it before resewing.
You sewed through both sides of the pant leg. Use a seam ripper to remove the caught stitches, open the leg, then resew with the fabric positioned correctly.
The garment is too short. Do not stretch it or unfold a hem without enough allowance. A false hem or facing may be possible, but depends on the fabric and construction.
Frequently asked questions
Can I hem pants with a sewing machine without cutting them?
Yes. Fold, press, and stitch a temporary or permanent hem without trimming first. This lets you confirm the length, but excess fabric inside can create bulk. Trim only when the garment has enough allowance for the double fold.
Should I use a straight stitch or zigzag stitch for a hem?
Use a straight stitch for a visible hem on stable fabric. For fabric that needs to stretch, make a test seam and consult the manual if it pops or distorts.
Do I need a special foot to hem pants?
No special foot is required for a visible double-fold hem; a standard presser foot can work. A blind hem may require a blind-hem foot and a compatible stitch, and those accessories are model-specific. Check what came with your machine and its manual.
Why should I press before sewing a hem?
Pressing establishes the fold line before the fabric reaches the needle. It makes a consistent hem easier to sew.
A neat hem comes from preparation
Measure the final length, double-fold and press the allowance, test the setup, then sew an even line near the inner fold. Take extra care with stretch fabric, thick seams, and machine-specific blind-hem features.
For an overview of why the top thread and bobbin need to cooperate, read how a sewing machine works.